The Safe As Milk festival, scheduled to be held at Pontins Prestatyn Sands Holiday Park in Wales over the weekend of April 21 - 23, included a mouthwatering, eclectic line-up, including Shirley Collins (who was my main reason for deciding to buy a ticket), Nurse With Wound, Circle (who were scheduled to do two sets, one of which was an acoustic one), Grouper, Butthole Surfers, The Residents, Ulver, and many more. I checked out a lot of the other artists online as my excitement for the festival grew, and I discovered that I especially liked Moor Mother, Richard Dawson, and Ndagga Rhythm Force.
The online reviews for the Holiday Park made it sound like sort of a shit hole, but rooms were included in the price of the tickets, and I figured we'd be too busy to care too much about the rooms. It was going to be all about the music.
This article from The Guardian sheds some light on the cancellation.
I had been in touch with my friend Nidge, who was also going to be attending, and then I received the e-mail, steaming forth from my laptop screen like a turd in a microwave. The festival was canceled and the company behind it had gone into liquidation. They weren't sending out refunds (presumably because their other, more powerful debtors vultured in and swooped off with our ticket money), so I had to contact my bank and request a charge-back. The money is back in my account, although the bank claims to be still investigating the matter (edited to add: the investigation has been concluded and I've officially gotten a refund).
So what does one do when the flight is booked, time off of work has been arranged, and the weekend in question is looming? We figured we'd go anyway ("we" being my wife, Jeanine, and I). I started haunting venue websites and doing searches for upcoming shows in London (we were flying into Heathrow because it was cheapest). I reasoned that a lot of the bands had already booked flights too, so there would be some last minute substitute shows added.
I managed to miss getting tickets for the Grouper shows, which wasn't too bad because Grouper, aka Liz Harris, is from Portland, Oregon, which is almost local, relatively speaking. I did manage score a couple of tickets for Ndagga Rhythm Force at Cafe OTO in London though. By the time I noticed that they were playing two shows, the Saturday one had already sold out, but the Sunday matinee show wasn't. Sunday matinee it would be.
Even better, Nidge offered to let us stay at his place in London. We had three and a half days to play with, so I started thinking about what else we could do during that time. I considered trying to make it up to Bath, but we eventually decided to stay closer to London. The Atlas Obscura website gave me few ideas, and there were also a number of things I'd done before and wouldn't mind doing again. Plus, it was a good bet that Nidge would have some suggestions. It was also not lost on me that we would be in London for Record Store Day. That wasn't really a priority this time out though, because I was aware that Jeanine probably wouldn't want to be dragged into a bunch of record stores.
Like most long journeys, this one started in the middle of the night. I managed to get a few hours of sleep, but Jeanine stayed up. It rained on the way to the airport, and the automated gate at the parking lot wouldn't accept my prepaid code, so I had to go inside the hotel next to it and sort things out. Inside the airport, we got through all of the regular security hurdles in good time and settled in.
The sun rose.
The flight was uneventful, with a quick stop in Dallas before winging toward Heathrow. A security line, money exchange, and a bit of a tube ride later, and we were walking the short walk to Nidge's place. He met us in the street.
The last time I stayed at Nidge's, I was with my brother and we were preparing to head homeward after attending two evenings of Current 93 at the HMV Forum. That was seven years ago. In some ways, it was like no time had passed at all. Jeanine hadn't met Nidge before, so after introductions, we decided how to best fill the day. Nidge mentioned the possibility of going to one of his favorite places,Watts Chapel.
Getting to the chapel involved a drive into the suburbs and parking along a quintessential English lane. We then wandered uphill through the cemetery and into the tiny chapel. It was indeed beautiful and worth the visit.
Earlier, Nidge had revealed that the cemetery featured the grave of none other than Aldous Huxley, which was coincidental because I had recently purchased his novel, "Brave New World" because due to current trends (political and otherwise), I've gotten it into my head to read all of the classic dystopian novels this year (It's shameful that I haven't yet).
After paying our respects to Mr. Huxley, we drove down the lane for a bite to eat and a spot of tea. I can't now remember exactly what I ordered, but I remember that it was excellent and involved cheese. This is what I get for not writing this account sooner.
After our repast, Nidge announced that he was going to show me some British lizards. He's a passionate birder, and I'm a passionate herper, and the two passions are quite compatible, both requiring the visiting of natural areas. The day was overcast and cool, which isn't the best herping weather, but we gamely set out on a meander over a nearby heath. Nidge, true to form, casually identified every chirp and cheep as we walked. If I remember correctly, he was especially happy about hearing a Dartford Warbler.
I found a Raft Spider on one of the the wooden walkways, and then a little later on, saw my first UK lizard. It was an unassuming little creature simply called a Common Lizard. They must really be common if they can be found on chilly days. Common or not, I was happy. Before the end of the walk, we found at least a couple more.
I even convinced the first lizard to walk onto my hand:
Nidge also found us some little Sundew plants.
In the evening, we descended on The Ship Tavern (est. 1549, rebuilt 1923) to meet up with Jo0lie and Ian. They're all part of a group of friends who have been delving into London's history in a quest to find and visit all of the oldest pubs still open for business and serving food. A pub that originally opened over 200 years before my home country was founded definitely counts. The food and company was excellent. Joolie hasn't changed a bit.
The next day, Jeanine and I took in a couple of museums, namely the British Museum of Natural History (which I had visited before) and the Hunterian Museum (which I had learned about via Atlas Obscura). Looking this up to provide a link, I notice that we got in under the wire. There are two conflicting notices on the page, one stating the museum is now permanently closed, and one stating that the museum is closed until 2020. The British museum was fun, but crowded, and the Hunterian Museum was fascinating, despite the fact that a large percentage of its exhibits were of the "things in jars" variety. I took a few photos before noticing the "no photos" sign.
We later met Nidge at Rough Trade. We got there early and discovered that despite it being 4:30 in the afternoon, there was a big queue of people waiting to get in. Record Store Day in England is no joke. Here in the states, the lines usually dissipate before noon. I had already secured a copy of the Popol Vuh record I was after (or more correctly Nidge's early-rising friend had secured it), but I figured I'd see what else I could find. I had decided to not spend as much time in records stores this trip because I knew Jeanine would rather be doing other things. This is a far cry from my initial visits to England during which all records stores were visited, some multiple times. I picked up a Def Leppard 12" (a repress of their first 7") and a Gnod CD (not a RSD release, but I'd recently read a good review of it).
Afterward, we went and saw the theatrical production of Woman In Black. Nidge and I had both seen it before, but it was Jeanine's first time. It was as good as I remember it being. Beforehand, we watched a street performer doing juggling and balancing. I wasn't doing as good a job, and managed to dropped my camera lens on the cobblestones, which broke the autofocus knob. At least the lens itself didn't crack.
Afterward, we sauntered along the Thames. I tried to recreate the photos Greg and I took on our last trip, with mixed results.
At some point during the trip, we wandered by platform 9 and 3/4 at King's Cross. There was a big line of people waiting to take selfies next to it, so we wandered on.
On Sunday, we slept in a bit, and then Jeanine and I rushed off to see the Tower of London before the 2:00 PM Ndagga Rhythm Force show at Cafe OTO. We arrived at the Tower to discover that we were in the midst of the London Marathon, with crowds lining the streets and the Marathon route blocked off. We eventually managed to enter the Tower and take a quick walk through the buildings. We got to see a tower raven sitting on a railing, the crown jewels, and various other related sights.
Then, it was a mad dash toward Cafe OTO, first on the tube and then on one of the aboveground train routes. It looked like we were going to be late, but when we finally made it to the Cafe, the band hadn't started yet.
I've been aware of Cafe OTO for awhile because artists I like tend to perform there. I've even bought music from them online, and it was because of this that I found out that Ndagga Rhythm Force was performing there to fill the void left by the implosion of Safe As Milk. the venue itself is a small cafe that doubles (triples) as a performance space and record store. The record rack is small but potent, the food is good, and the audience filled the space. I'm not sure if the Sunday matinee was sold out like the Saturday evening show was, but if not, it was close.
The group is from Senegal, but they seem to have been taken under the wing of German techno musician Mark Ernestus. Their earlier releases are credited to Jeri-Jeri, and they have since expanded into Mark Ernestus' Ndagga Rhythm Force. Generally speaking, I'm not a fan of techno, but give me some real drummers pounding out complicated rhythms, an undercurrent of melancholy, and heaps of sheer exuberance, and I'm there in the front row.
The show was a riot of percussion, dancing, and the honeyed tones of Mbene Diatta Seck's expressive vocals. As the name suggests, the drums are the driving force behind the music. In fact, the guitarist was off in a corner while the various percussionists took center stage. Modou Mbaye's talking drum skittered along the top of the percussive depths like a manic surfer.
Dancer Fatou Wore Mboup was the visual focal point, and she looked like she was having a blast. At one point, both Mboup and Mbaye parted the crowd and brought the show into the audience. At other times, audience members were dragged onto the stage.
I came away wanting more. I had to console myself with some purchases at the merch table before following Jeanine back out onto the street.
Our next stop was the Hardy Tree, which was a short walk from King's Cross. It was hidden by a hedge in a churchyard. Nidge, who had actually seen shows in the church, hadn't ever noticed it. Thanks again, Atlas Obscura.
Afterward, we set out for Kensal Green Cemetery, only to find that it was already closed for the evening. At least we were on the outside of the gate when it was shut. I wonder if the two hapless people peering out at us from the inside managed to find a way out without having to climb a wall.
Not wanting to waste a trip, we took some photos between gaps in the fence as we walked back toward the tube station.
We rendezvoused with Nidge at Crossbones Cemetery for some, as Nidge joked, hippie bollocks. Actually, it was quite nice, and we were treated to a skit featuring St. George and the Dragon, and some heartfelt speechifying about recognizing and remembering the woman whose remains had been disturbed there. We even got to take a quick walk around inside the fence. There are no gravestones or other markers, of course, since the area served as a huge common grave for the downtrodden and dispossessed, most of whom (if not all) were prostitutes.
Afterward, Jeanine and I found a quick bite to eat and then we joined Nidge and one of his friends at an old pub up the street. His friend, who turned out to be an amateur historian later showed us a nondescript wall that he said was one of the oldest still standing in London.
Back at Nidge's, we slept the sleep of the exhausted. The next morning, he brought us to the airport. Our flight back was (wonder of wonders) nonstop. It started raining as we left.
It was more of a hassle getting back into the U.S. than it was entering the UK. Number forty five is more of a number two, if you catch my meaning.
The trip was a whirlwind of activity. We were only there for half a week, but I'm glad that I got a chance to take Jeanine to the UK, and it was great to reconnect with Nidge and to simply be there. There is this indefinable feeling I get when I'm in England. I've only been there a handful of times, but in some ways, it feels like home. Sure, right now the politics of both the UK and the U.S. are a shitshow of ignorance, but that's not what I'm talking about. It's the little differences between there and here. It's the charming old buildings and the ease of their public transportation system. It's the cemeteries and skylines. I could go on, but It's time to wrap this up for now, since as I type, it's already July. Where does the time go?
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